Archive for the ‘Planting and Maintaining’ Category

I went all week starring at my almost finished patio and bare bed; dreaming of the final product. Now it is done and it feels so good I can’t stop smiling!!! The final steps took me one more day. I was up with the sun and so I was able to relax in the afternoon and enjoy my hard work.

The first phase of completing my project was to put Quick Crete in between the pavers to solidify it so we can roll over it with our trash cans. Spray the area with water so the sand sinks and compacts under the stones. Then go back and re-level some of the stones that are low or wobbly. You can do this the day before, because you want the area dry before putting down the Quick Crete. We did this in one day, so while I was letting the area dry I went ahead and started my bed prep.

Prepping the bed is really easy. I did this all by myself, just take your time and throughly clean the area. First map out where you want the bed to go. You can use your garden hose or spray paint (don’t worry it fades after you mow the grass). Once you have established your line follow it with a shovel separating the grass and bed with a small 3″ trench. If you do this a head of time you can spray Round up inside the bed and kill all the weeds. That way when you go to remove the debris it comes up much easier. I like to do things the hard way so I just used my shovel and scraped the old grass form the bed and pulled all the weeds. I then applied a thin layer of Amaze to the bare area.

Amaze is a great chemical. It prohibits the growth of the weed seeds that you don’t see in your bed. It works for almost all weeds accept torpedo grass (because the roots are too deep). The only draw back is that it is not environmentally friendly. I have searched far and wide for similar products that do the same thing with out being harmful; so far no luck. The closest thing would be corn gluten (which has received very poor ratings) or a landscape cloth (which is time consuming and unreliable). When they develop a good weed preventive that isn’t harmful you will be the first to know.

On to the next step, put your dirt in the bed. You want to use a good organic soil, stinky is a good thing. Build up your bed about 4″. You want enough soil, so when you plant your plants you are using your existing soil and new soil. Level out your bed sloping away from the house and toward the street. This should be slight, you don’t want to create mountains in your front yard and you do not need a swamp near your slab. A gentle sloped bed is ideal. Lightly coat the top with more Amaze and a high nitrogen fertilizer,

mix in the top two inches.

The fun part, place your plants according to your design. Now Stop….go get some water and sit down in front of your bed and placed plants. While you are hydrating look at the spacing of your plants. 3 gallon plants should be spaced 36″ on center, 1 gallon plants about 12″ on center depending on the variety. Do not put your 4″ plants out until after you mulch.

This is the best way to think about the spacing of your plants…how much maintenance do you want to do? Plants that are planted close together are going to become a hedge row; which will require pruning. Plants placed far apart are going to become a specimen plant. Use the guidelines above for an average shrub and for most designs. I my design I have a combination of these practices. I planted my camellias close together as well as my boxwood; both of these are to create a hedge effect. The rest of my plants are spaced properly so I don’t have to tend to those as much.

Enough of all this relaxing….time to plant your plants. Make sure and leave about 1″ of the root ball above your existing grade. This helps the plant breath. Tweak your irrigation system. I ran a small drip head to each major grouping of plants as well as where my annuals and ground cover are going to be located.

Now lets talk mulch. This is so important to your bed health. Despite all the critics out there that believe we are killing trees by using mulch, they are wrong. Pine needle mulch is the best, it is environmentally sound because it is harvested off of the forest and doesn’t require the cutting of trees. Cypress is rather controversial; sick to Grade A cypress. It is harvested from Florida cypress that is cut from lumber and the mulch is a by product. So, as long as they are using cypress in buildings there will always be this mulch. I use pine needle mulch and that is what I recommend to you. Mulch keeps the moisture in and the weeds out, it also adds valuable nutrients to the bed.

Once you have mulched place your 4″ flowers and ground cover according to the design. Plant by moving the mulch and soil directly under the plant, remove sleeve and drop in. When this is done water throughly, with hose and test irrigation system.

At this point the patio is dry. Eric pored the dry Quick Crete and I swept it into the cracks, making sure that it is completely filled. I then sprayed it with the hose saturating the concrete and rinsing off any dust on the stones themselves. Concrete takes awhile to dry even if it has an accelerator in it like Quick Crete. We will not be using the patio for a few more days, but when it is finished drying it will be so easy to use.

This project took about 6 weeks from start to finish. I now have a master plan to follow for my other projects around the house. The total cost was well under $1000.00 because I did it myself. The Gardening Made Simple Program is designed to save you money. The cost of labor is usually around 50 to 60% of the overall cost, sometimes more with hardscaping. If you have the will, we have the knowledge. In the end you will feel so good that you did it yourself and your yard is the envy of the neighborhood.

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Steps to digging a perfect garden trench
Start with laying a garden hose on the ground to define the shape of the new planting area.  The hose will give you a guideline to follow.  You will need to use a sharp digging shovel to dig a v-type trench. 
Select a sharp flat shovel to cut the trench.
Hold your spade at about 45 degrees, with its sharpened head on the edge line. Put your foot on the head and guide it at a 45-degree angle 3 inches into the soil.
Lift out the grass and soil and toss it into your wheelbarrow. Take a step to one side and make another cut and toss to match the first. Continue down the line you’ve drawn until the entire edge is dug out.
The trench should be 3 inches deep, sloping up to 3 inches wide at the top. Let the lawn grow right up to one side, with the garden bed meeting the other side.
 
 
 

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 Mulching, Color and Birth Control
Birth Control for weeds is how you keep the perfect garden without spending countless hours.  Apply 1lbs.of Eptam or Amaze per 10’x10’ garden bed using a Earthway handheld spreader set on 3. Apply mulch to a minimum depth of 3”.  Use 1-3.3 cubic foot bag per 15 sq. feet of bed area. Layout out all annuals, ground cover and perennials as the Garden Made Simple plan indicates spacing on 8” centers as previously described.   Move the mulch back that is under each plant, dig a hole 1 1/2 times the size of the plant and install the plant.  Make sure that the plant is planted 1/2” higher than the existing garden beds.  Mound the soil to make sure that water will drain away from the plant. Water all that plant materials in thoroughly.  This should take around 30 minutes.  Make sure to follow the watering guidelines for additional watering instructions.  

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 Now that you have a little direction for your new garden, working in the garden needs to be enjoyable.  Plan you gardening activities more like you would a picnic or a day at the beach.  Make a list of all the things you’ll need and gather your supplies during the week so you don’t spend your weekend just gathering materials.  Next, you can work on apply roundup after work on Monday or Tuesday because it needs a few days to begin working.  When Saturday roles around, get an early start and work at a steady pace making sure to take breaks and drink plenty of water.  Gardening burns approximately 7-10 calories per minute which is equivalent to jogging.  You can over garden just like over exercising which will result in aches and pains in your entire body the next day.  In the general areas where you are going to install your new garden, clean and remove all debris. If weeds are persistent in the garden, apply round up at 2% solution (typically 2 oz of commercial grade round up  to a gallon of water and apply using a handheld pump sprayer)  Prepare the beds for planting.  Use soil conditioner to prepare the planting mixture incorporating it into the existing soil.  You will need to use 1 bag for every 15 sq. feet.  Make sure the thoroughly work the new soils mixture together with the existing soil using a garden fork. Apply Amaze or Eptam at a rate of 1 lb per 100 sq. feet.  Incorporate the pre emergent herbicide in the upper 2” of the soil by raking with a metal leaf rake.  These products reduce the population of new weeds in the garden.  Add 1.5 pounds of Nursery Special 12-6-6 per 100 sq. feet of bed area.  Apply spreading with a handheld Earthway handheld fertilizer spreader. 

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Begin planting each plant by removing the plant from the container.  Loosen the rootball of the plant by loosening the soil with your hands.  This will stimulate growth.  Dig the hole 1 1/2 times larger than the container.  Make sure to create a small mound on the bottom of the hole. This helps will drainage. Place the plant in the hole and backfill with soil.  Make sure not to plant to deep.  As a rule, plant 1” higher than the soil creating a miniature levee around the plant.  This will make sure the plant is not too deep and help with retaining water.  Repeat this process until all the plants are installed.  Do not install any 4” or 6” annuals, ground cover or perennials at this stage.   Using a metal garden rake, regrade the garden bed to provide positive drainage. 

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 Using your Garden Made Simple planting plan, begin placing all your plants as shown in the plan.  4” annuals are spaced 8” part, 1 gallon plants are spaced 18” apart, 3 gallon plants are spaced 36” apart and 5 gallon plants are spaced 48” apart Plant space is accomplished by measuring from the center of one plant to the center of another plant. Face the plants so the best side is facing forward.   After all the plants are faced, check plants for spacing and quantity.  Make sure you have enough plants or not to many for the planting area.  Over planting will cause general decline in the plants in a few years.  In addition to general decline, it’s a waste of money.

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Most people begin gardening with mimicking their neighbors.  Mrs. Jones plants impatiens, you plant impatiens, hers live, yours die.  You think to yourself, I have a black thumb but the reality never comes across your mind that maybe, you have planted the right plant in the wrong place.  You continue to copy Mrs. Jones and to no avail, everything you plant dies.  You concede to defeat and eventually give up.  This is not a time to concede with defeat but a time to follow my 3 simple little rules.
Rule #1 Plant the right plant in the right spot.  Time goes on, you plant the right plant in the right spot but again, the plant dies.  Now there is not doubt in your mind, you are a plant killer!
Rule #2 Remember one critical thing-Water!  Watering is a balance act between hydration and saturation.  Watering needs to be through enough to fully saturate the roots without drowning the plant.  This is typically accomplished with watering 3 time per week.   Now you plant the right plant in the right spot, remember to water but the plant flowers for 2 weeks and then the beautiful flower is a really pretty green.  
Rule # 3 Simply add fertilizer.  At the initial planting, your plants have had the equivalent of life support.  They have been carefully monitored, watered exactly right and fertilized everyday.  This is to make sure that when you buy the plant, its prefect.  These plants are planted in gardening and basically it’s likely going into sock.  The care they received is no longer around and these plants have to fend for themselves.  Rather than that, add 1 tablespoon of granular fertilizer for flowers. This fertilizer will take approximately 2 weeks to become active in the soil.  To help the plant recovery from the initial transplant and encourage future flowering, use 20-20-20 Peters water soluble fertilizer every 7.  Now following these simply instructions, you plant the right plant in the right spot, watering properly and simply adding fertilizer. Now, “ You are a gardener” and the title Plant Killer can be removed from the garden shed wall.
Remember the 3 simple rules;
Plant the right Plant in the Right Spot
Water
Simply add fertilizer
Once you understand the importance of the 3 simple rules to gardening, the next step is planning. 

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 In the Gulf South when the weather begins to turn cooler in the evenings the thick lush St. Augustine grass develops a fungus we call brown patch. It also can occur in winter rye grass as well.  Typically the fungus grows in areas when humid and moisture is present in the thatch layer of the grass and usually happens during April and October in the New Orleans Area. 

So you have this problem and just want to fix it.  Here are a couple of things you can do to reduce brown patch in your yard. 

  1. Do not fertilize if you notice the fungus in the yard.  It will make it worse.
  2. Stop watering the yard which will slow the growth down.
  3. Apply a fungus as directed by the label to control brown patch.
  4. Rake affected area and remove the damaged grass.
  5. Make sure you are using a mower that collects the cuttings rather than mulching.

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What do I want in my garden?Before planning the garden one must realize what he wants his garden to be. Whether it is a place to entertain, an arbor, a water feature, a sculpture, screening, open areas, etc, these are things that help in the planning process.

We call this developing a program for the property or the yard.

Why do I need to plan my garden?

To have a cohesive garden, one where all the elements work and function together, a good plan is essential. Also, if the idea is to create a garden in stages, a plan a necessity. It will help in making decisions about where to put the garden elements. The plan may help visualize a garden (come up with a plan and example photos).

Some things to consider when planning: circulation, function, interest, color, water, fragrance, shade, openness, activity, privacy.

Where do I put the garden elements?

This is the part when the actual plan comes to life. It is basically a combination of what is discussed in the first two steps, the what and the why. A survey or some sort of measured layout of the property is needed where all existing elements are located on a piece of paper. Using a system of trace paper overlays is very useful.

Lets say we have decided to have a patio, a water feature, and an arbor in the newly planned garden. Where will all this be placed?

Functionally the patio will be located at the door from the house to the yard.

If I want to enjoy the water feature and hear the sound of water while on the patio, I will locate very close or within the patio. Existing trees could be a factor for the features location as well.

The arbor will be located at the sunny part of the yard where I can go sit and enjoy filtered sunlight while reading. This area should be connected to the back patio.

This is a general idea of how the garden will be planned. There are many factors to consider when planning as mentioned in item 2.

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