Archive for the ‘Planning’ Category

I went all week starring at my almost finished patio and bare bed; dreaming of the final product. Now it is done and it feels so good I can’t stop smiling!!! The final steps took me one more day. I was up with the sun and so I was able to relax in the afternoon and enjoy my hard work.

The first phase of completing my project was to put Quick Crete in between the pavers to solidify it so we can roll over it with our trash cans. Spray the area with water so the sand sinks and compacts under the stones. Then go back and re-level some of the stones that are low or wobbly. You can do this the day before, because you want the area dry before putting down the Quick Crete. We did this in one day, so while I was letting the area dry I went ahead and started my bed prep.

Prepping the bed is really easy. I did this all by myself, just take your time and throughly clean the area. First map out where you want the bed to go. You can use your garden hose or spray paint (don’t worry it fades after you mow the grass). Once you have established your line follow it with a shovel separating the grass and bed with a small 3″ trench. If you do this a head of time you can spray Round up inside the bed and kill all the weeds. That way when you go to remove the debris it comes up much easier. I like to do things the hard way so I just used my shovel and scraped the old grass form the bed and pulled all the weeds. I then applied a thin layer of Amaze to the bare area.

Amaze is a great chemical. It prohibits the growth of the weed seeds that you don’t see in your bed. It works for almost all weeds accept torpedo grass (because the roots are too deep). The only draw back is that it is not environmentally friendly. I have searched far and wide for similar products that do the same thing with out being harmful; so far no luck. The closest thing would be corn gluten (which has received very poor ratings) or a landscape cloth (which is time consuming and unreliable). When they develop a good weed preventive that isn’t harmful you will be the first to know.

On to the next step, put your dirt in the bed. You want to use a good organic soil, stinky is a good thing. Build up your bed about 4″. You want enough soil, so when you plant your plants you are using your existing soil and new soil. Level out your bed sloping away from the house and toward the street. This should be slight, you don’t want to create mountains in your front yard and you do not need a swamp near your slab. A gentle sloped bed is ideal. Lightly coat the top with more Amaze and a high nitrogen fertilizer,

mix in the top two inches.

The fun part, place your plants according to your design. Now Stop….go get some water and sit down in front of your bed and placed plants. While you are hydrating look at the spacing of your plants. 3 gallon plants should be spaced 36″ on center, 1 gallon plants about 12″ on center depending on the variety. Do not put your 4″ plants out until after you mulch.

This is the best way to think about the spacing of your plants…how much maintenance do you want to do? Plants that are planted close together are going to become a hedge row; which will require pruning. Plants placed far apart are going to become a specimen plant. Use the guidelines above for an average shrub and for most designs. I my design I have a combination of these practices. I planted my camellias close together as well as my boxwood; both of these are to create a hedge effect. The rest of my plants are spaced properly so I don’t have to tend to those as much.

Enough of all this relaxing….time to plant your plants. Make sure and leave about 1″ of the root ball above your existing grade. This helps the plant breath. Tweak your irrigation system. I ran a small drip head to each major grouping of plants as well as where my annuals and ground cover are going to be located.

Now lets talk mulch. This is so important to your bed health. Despite all the critics out there that believe we are killing trees by using mulch, they are wrong. Pine needle mulch is the best, it is environmentally sound because it is harvested off of the forest and doesn’t require the cutting of trees. Cypress is rather controversial; sick to Grade A cypress. It is harvested from Florida cypress that is cut from lumber and the mulch is a by product. So, as long as they are using cypress in buildings there will always be this mulch. I use pine needle mulch and that is what I recommend to you. Mulch keeps the moisture in and the weeds out, it also adds valuable nutrients to the bed.

Once you have mulched place your 4″ flowers and ground cover according to the design. Plant by moving the mulch and soil directly under the plant, remove sleeve and drop in. When this is done water throughly, with hose and test irrigation system.

At this point the patio is dry. Eric pored the dry Quick Crete and I swept it into the cracks, making sure that it is completely filled. I then sprayed it with the hose saturating the concrete and rinsing off any dust on the stones themselves. Concrete takes awhile to dry even if it has an accelerator in it like Quick Crete. We will not be using the patio for a few more days, but when it is finished drying it will be so easy to use.

This project took about 6 weeks from start to finish. I now have a master plan to follow for my other projects around the house. The total cost was well under $1000.00 because I did it myself. The Gardening Made Simple Program is designed to save you money. The cost of labor is usually around 50 to 60% of the overall cost, sometimes more with hardscaping. If you have the will, we have the knowledge. In the end you will feel so good that you did it yourself and your yard is the envy of the neighborhood.

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The Fall is a great time to consider planning renovations or additions to your garden.  Fall in New Orleans is the second spring in the Big Easy.  As the temperatures turn favorable for planting and the humidity starts to decline making our plants actually smile.   

Here are a handful for gardening ideas that can entire you into the hall of Gardening Fame in your neighborhood.  

 

 

1. Start by looking at all the plants and the condition have this summer and recent Gustav challenge.  If you notice broken limbs, damaged leaves, fungus or insect damage then consider replacing.  

2.Revisit your long term gardening plan.  Maybe its time to remove those old hedges by adding some new hedges.  There are new varieties of plants released every year with improvements as well as pest resistant. 

3.Make sure you are feeding our plants as this will provide a return on your investment 10 fold.  A solid feeding program throughout the year will make all your plants healthier as well as stronger.  Healthier plants need less care.  

4.Add colorful potted accent plants at entrance ways and focal points in the yard.  

5.Plan your garden thinking about all 4 seasons.  Fall-Winter-Spring-Summer with annual rotations for each season. Planning will give you something to look forward to in your yard and rather than be a follower..you will be the leader.  

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New Orleans temperatures have such a huge variation that you can count on only one thing these days, a huge change from day to day. What does this mean for a gardener? It means that you will have to follow the gardeners guide to winter rather than, “ I wish it was Spring early” Get out there and get to working.

Advice from The Garden Gate Guy:

Use Mardi Gras as the date as the being of spring and use for the following:

  1. Prune the winter dieback off of all plants.
  2. Prune Crape Myrtles
  3. Fertilize lawns
  4. Apply Eptam or Snap Shots about 1lbs per 1000 sq. feet
  5. Prepare beds for spring planting by turning the soil over adding new soil conditioner
  6. Remulch the beds at least to a depth of 3″
  7. Plan your garden planting to begin March 1st
  8. When your done, go treat yourself to a day at the spa.
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It is important to select plant materials that are healthy and in a growing state. Look closely for insects, disease or signs of stress. It is always recommended that a small more compact plant will transplant easier and easier to control its growth than a leggy plant. Make sure to inspect the root stock of the plant. The root system provides all the essential food for the plant. Make sure not to select plants that have become root bound. Take the opportunity to look at the mature plant variety you are selecting to be able to determine if this plant will work for situation. During the selection of the plant material, make sure the plant is hydrated, foliage is clean and foliage colors are dark green or bright. Check for spotting, leaf edge burn or other common plant problems. (A single burned leaf can be snipped, but if the entire plant shows signs of distress, forget it.) Flowering plants should have young, tight buds. It’s nice to see the plant in full bloom, but if it is fully flowered now, you may not see it bloom in your garden until the following year. This is especially true with Azaleas and other flowering shrubs. Some perennials and most annuals have an extended blooming period, so with these plants this is not a major concern, but should be carefully examined for quality. Understanding the importance of soil is an understatement. It always said that it’s better to have a $5 hole with a $1 dollar plant than a $5 plant in a $1 hole. The majority of annuals and shrubs prefer well-drained soil with moderate humus content. If your soil has high clay content, you can amend it with pine bark fines or well-rotted manure; after the first year, you should need only a light reapplication in spring. Shrubs require regular feeding 3 times per year to maintain a balance between flowering, foliage and rooting development. Use Sta-green fertilizer for Azaleas and Camellias during early spring at 1-2 lbs. of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. All other shrubs should be fertilized with Sta-green Nursery Special at 1.5 lbs. per 1000 square feet. Some annuals, including cosmos, gazania and nasturtium, require little in the way of fertilizer and, in fact, do better in relatively infertile soil. Portulaca is at its best where the soil is poor and the same holds true for poppies, whose gorgeous blooms are at their best in the dry, fast-draining soil of stony banks and alpine rock gardens as well as lavender. Use Peter’s 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer applying with a hose end applicator with 1 tablespoon per gallon water every 7 days.

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 Planning is the critical factor to the success of any garden.  Before planning a garden, it is important to think about the function or functions of the garden.  Is it a place to entertain, a shaded arbor for seating, a water feature for noise, a sculpture, screening of a neighbor or open areas for play? All these are questions you should answer before buying plants. To have a unified garden, where all the components function together, planning is essential. If the idea is to work on the garden in stages, planning or developing a plan is a necessity.  Planning will help make decisions about where to place garden elements. In addition, planning will help you begin to visualize how the garden will look or function together.   Start by gather your ideas, take photos of the proposed garden, cut out pictures from magazines that may inspire you and write everything down you want in your garden.   Begin by taking pictures of the area that you are going to create your new garden. Once you have these pictures, scatter them on your table so you can visualize the space.  Begin to make a list of elements that you want in the garden. 
Consider how you are going water this new garden, are you going to add lighting, drainage, and what about children’s equipment.  Once you have made your list, prioritizes the list based on need or want.  It is important to recognize that in the beginning of building a new garden, you should not compromise on quality materials.  Using poor quality materials leads to multiple problems later with the garden.  You will encounter insect, disease, drainage and other problems cutting corners during the building of the garden. 
   Drainage problems will be the death of any garden.  It is important to work on correcting the drainage problems before the any other steps are taken.  Review the existing area, note if after a hard rain visible water is standing. Investigate if gutters are clean, does the gutter downspout connect into subsurface drainage, are there visible signs of erosion and identify low areas in the lawn and or garden.  Correct the low areas in the lawn or garden by adding fill.  Make sure to use clean pump sand for lawn areas and an organic based soil for the garden.  Both of these soils will assist with drainage.  To correct more difficult drainage problems you will need to call a company that is experience in correcting drainage problems.  Consider having sub surface drainage installed to eliminate standing water and gutter downspout run off.
Plan to water y our garden.  Make sure that you are not planting more than you can maintain.  Watering is the most important care plant material requires being healthy and providing years of enjoyment.  One solution is an automatic irrigation system which once you get over the initial investment, it actually pays for itself.  Automatic irrigation systems last on average 10-15 years but can be extended with proper maintenance using an irrigation service company.  Another less expensive solution is a movable sprinklers which can be automated with a timer.  This will allow regular watering but will give everything the same equal amount of water.
Think about creating perennial planting layouts.  Make sure to consider height as well as light requirements.  I would suggest adding Rubeckia in sun areas as a taller planting with an accent of Artemisia as a border to create a mounding effect. For a shading area, Lobelia will work as the taller planting and chocolate chip ajuga for the lower planting.  You can also plant masses of hosta in conjunction with the Lobelia for foliage contrast.    It is important to consulate with an experience perennial gardener to make these additional successful.
  Now that you have put some thought into your garden, the property needs to be surveyed.  Surveying the property is simply locating all the elements that exist and measuring their exact location.  Once you have the exact locations of all the elements from the property, use the graph paper in Designing My Garden to sketch the property. Let’s say we have decided to have a patio, a water feature, and an arbor in the newly planned garden.  Where will all this be placed?  Functionally the patio will be located at the door from the house to the yard.  If I want to enjoy the water feature and hear the sound of water while on the patio, this will need to be located very close or within the patio.  Existing trees could be a factor for the features location as well. The arbor will be located at the sunny part of the yard where you can go sit and enjoy filtered sunlight while reading.  This area should be connected to the back patio. This is an example of how the garden should functions together with consideration for circulation, function, interest, color, water, fragrance, shade, openness, activity, privacy.
 

 

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It is important to select plant materials that are healthy and in a growing state. Look closely for insects, disease or signs of stress. It is always recommended that a small more compact plant will transplant easier and easier to control its growth than a leggy plant. Make sure to inspect the root stock of the plant. The root system provides all the essential food for the plant. Make sure not to select plants that have become root bound. Take the opportunity to look at the mature plant variety you are selecting to be able to determine if this plant will work for situation. During the selection of the plant material, make sure the plant is hydrated, foliage is clean and foliage colors are dark green or bright. Check for spotting, leaf edge burn or other common plant problems. (A single burned leaf can be snipped, but if the entire plant shows signs of distress, forget it.) Flowering plants should have young, tight buds. It’s nice to see the plant in full bloom, but if it is fully flowered now, you may not see it bloom in your garden until the following year. This is especially true with Azaleas and other flowering shrubs. Some perennials and most annuals have an extended blooming period, so with these plants this is not a major concern, but should be carefully examined for quality. Understanding the importance of soil is an understatement. It always said that it’s better to have a $5 hole with a $1 dollar plant than a $5 plant in a $1 hole. The majority of annuals and shrubs prefer well-drained soil with moderate humus content. If your soil has high clay content, you can amend it with pine bark fines or well-rotted manure; after the first year, you should need only a light reapplication in spring. Shrubs require regular feeding 3 times per year to maintain a balance between flowering, foliage and rooting development. Use Sta-green fertilizer for Azaleas and Camellias during early spring at 1-2 lbs. of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. All other shrubs should be fertilized with Sta-green Nursery Special at 1.5 lbs. per 1000 square feet. Some annuals, including cosmos, gazania and nasturtium, require little in the way of fertilizer and, in fact, do better in relatively infertile soil. Portulaca is at its best where the soil is poor and the same holds true for poppies, whose gorgeous blooms are at their best in the dry, fast-draining soil of stony banks and alpine rock gardens as well as lavender. Use Peter’s 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer applying with a hose end applicator with 1 tablespoon per gallon water every 7 days.

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It is important to select plant materials that are healthy and in a growing state. Look closely for insects, disease or signs of stress. It is always recommended that a small more compact plant will transplant easier and easier to control its growth than a leggy plant. Make sure to inspect the root stock of the plant. The root system provides all the essential food for the plant. Make sure not to select plants that have become root bound. Take the opportunity to look at the mature plant variety you are selecting to be able to determine if this plant will work for situation. During the selection of the plant material, make sure the plant is hydrated, foliage is clean and foliage colors are dark green or bright. Check for spotting, leaf edge burn or other common plant problems. (A single burned leaf can be snipped, but if the entire plant shows signs of distress, forget it.) Flowering plants should have young, tight buds. It’s nice to see the plant in full bloom, but if it is fully flowered now, you may not see it bloom in your garden until the following year. This is especially true with Azaleas and other flowering shrubs. Some perennials and most annuals have an extended blooming period, so with these plants this is not a major concern, but should be carefully examined for quality. Understanding the importance of soil is an understatement. It always said that it’s better to have a $5 hole with a $1 dollar plant than a $5 plant in a $1 hole. The majority of annuals and shrubs prefer well-drained soil with moderate humus content. If your soil has high clay content, you can amend it with pine bark fines or well-rotted manure; after the first year, you should need only a light reapplication in spring. Shrubs require regular feeding 3 times per year to maintain a balance between flowering, foliage and rooting development. Use Sta-green fertilizer for Azaleas and Camellias during early spring at 1-2 lbs. of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. All other shrubs should be fertilized with Sta-green Nursery Special at 1.5 lbs. per 1000 square feet. Some annuals, including cosmos, gazania and nasturtium, require little in the way of fertilizer and, in fact, do better in relatively infertile soil. Portulaca is at its best where the soil is poor and the same holds true for poppies, whose gorgeous blooms are at their best in the dry, fast-draining soil of stony banks and alpine rock gardens as well as lavender. Use Peter’s 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer applying with a hose end applicator with 1 tablespoon per gallon water every 7 days.

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What do I want in my garden?Before planning the garden one must realize what he wants his garden to be. Whether it is a place to entertain, an arbor, a water feature, a sculpture, screening, open areas, etc, these are things that help in the planning process.

We call this developing a program for the property or the yard.

Why do I need to plan my garden?

To have a cohesive garden, one where all the elements work and function together, a good plan is essential. Also, if the idea is to create a garden in stages, a plan a necessity. It will help in making decisions about where to put the garden elements. The plan may help visualize a garden (come up with a plan and example photos).

Some things to consider when planning: circulation, function, interest, color, water, fragrance, shade, openness, activity, privacy.

Where do I put the garden elements?

This is the part when the actual plan comes to life. It is basically a combination of what is discussed in the first two steps, the what and the why. A survey or some sort of measured layout of the property is needed where all existing elements are located on a piece of paper. Using a system of trace paper overlays is very useful.

Lets say we have decided to have a patio, a water feature, and an arbor in the newly planned garden. Where will all this be placed?

Functionally the patio will be located at the door from the house to the yard.

If I want to enjoy the water feature and hear the sound of water while on the patio, I will locate very close or within the patio. Existing trees could be a factor for the features location as well.

The arbor will be located at the sunny part of the yard where I can go sit and enjoy filtered sunlight while reading. This area should be connected to the back patio.

This is a general idea of how the garden will be planned. There are many factors to consider when planning as mentioned in item 2.

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Gardening has become one of the largest hobbies throughout the world. Gardening changes the way you feel and how you perceive your surrounding environment. The ability to enhance your environment is the number one reason most people begin gardening. Maybe your aunt or neighbor has a beautiful garden and this inspires you or stimulates a competition of keeping up with the Jones! That’s how it gets started and usually how it all quickly becomes out of control. Gardening Made Simple offers practical solutions for your gardening lifestyle. Use these simple yet highly effective gardening solutions to create useful spaces with easy care and maintenance.

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