Archive for the ‘Planning’ Category
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October 20, 2008
I went all week starring at my almost finished patio and bare bed; dreaming of the final product. Now it is done and it feels so good I can’t stop smiling!!! The final steps took me one more day. I was up with the sun and so I was able to relax in the afternoon and enjoy my hard work.
Prepping the bed is really easy. I did this all by myself, just take your time and throughly clean the area. First map out where you want the bed to go. You can use your garden hose or spray paint (don’t worry it fades after you mow the grass). Amaze is a great chemical. It prohibits the growth of the weed seeds that you don’t see in your bed. It works for almost all weeds accept torpedo grass (because the roots are too deep). The only draw back is that it is not environmentally friendly. I have searched far and wide for similar products that do the same thing with out being harmful; so far no luck. The closest thing would be corn gluten (which has received very poor ratings) or a landscape cloth (which is time consuming and unreliable). When they develop a good weed preventive that isn’t harmful you will be the first to know. On to the next step, put your dirt in the bed. You want to use a good organic soil, stinky is a good thing. Build up your bed about 4″. You want enough soil, so when you plant your plants you are using your existing soil and new soil. Level out your bed sloping away from the house and toward the street. This should be slight, you don’t want to create mountains in your front yard and you do not need a swamp near your slab. A gentle sloped bed is ideal. Lightly coat the top with more Amaze and a high nitrogen fertilizer, mix in the top two inches. The fun part, place your plants according to your design. Now Stop….go get some water and sit down in front of your bed and placed plants. While you are hydrating look at the spacing of your plants. 3 gallon plants should be spaced 36″ on center, 1 gallon plants about 12″ on center depending on the variety. Do not put your 4″ plants out until after you mulch. This is the best way to think about the spacing of your plants…how much maintenance do you want to do? Plants that are planted close together are going to become a hedge row; which will require pruning. Plants placed far apart are going to become a specimen plant. Use the guidelines above for an average shrub and for most designs. I my design I have a combination of these practices. I planted my camellias close together as well as my boxwood; both of these are to create a hedge effect. The rest of my plants are spaced properly so I don’t have to tend to those as much. Enough of all this relaxing….time to plant your plants. Make sure and leave about 1″ of the root ball above your existing grade. This helps the plant breath. Tweak your irrigation system. I ran a small drip head to each major grouping of plants as well as where my annuals and ground cover are going to be located. Now lets talk mulch. This is so important to your bed health. Despite all the critics out there that believe we are killing trees by using mulch, they are wrong. Pine needle mulch is the best, it is environmentally sound because it is harvested off of the forest and doesn’t require the cutting of trees. Cypress is rather controversial; sick to Grade A cypress. It is harvested from Florida cypress that is cut from lumber and the mulch is a by product. So, as long as they are using cypress in buildings there will always be this mulch. I use pine needle mulch and that is what I recommend to you. Mulch keeps the moisture in and the weeds out, it also adds valuable nutrients to the bed. Once you have mulched place your 4″ flowers and ground cover according to the design. Plant by moving the mulch and soil directly under the plant, remove sleeve and drop in. When this is done water throughly, with hose and test irrigation system. At this point the patio is dry. Eric pored the dry Quick Crete and I swept it into the cracks, making sure that it is completely filled. This project took about 6 weeks from start to finish. I now have a master plan to follow for my other projects around the house. The total cost was well under $1000.00 because I did it myself. The Gardening Made Simple Program is designed to save you money. The cost of labor is usually around 50 to 60% of the overall cost, sometimes more with hardscaping. If you have the will, we have the knowledge. In the end you will feel so good that you did it yourself and your yard is the envy of the neighborhood.
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September 12, 2008
The Fall is a great time to consider planning renovations or additions to your garden. Fall in New Orleans is the second spring in the Big Easy. As the temperatures turn favorable for planting and the humidity starts to decline making our plants actually smile. Here are a handful for gardening ideas that can entire you into the hall of Gardening Fame in your neighborhood.
1. Start by looking at all the plants and the condition have this summer and recent Gustav challenge. If you notice broken limbs, damaged leaves, fungus or insect damage then consider replacing. 2.Revisit your long term gardening plan. Maybe its time to remove those old hedges by adding some new hedges. There are new varieties of plants released every year with improvements as well as pest resistant. 3.Make sure you are feeding our plants as this will provide a return on your investment 10 fold. A solid feeding program throughout the year will make all your plants healthier as well as stronger. Healthier plants need less care. 4.Add colorful potted accent plants at entrance ways and focal points in the yard. 5.Plan your garden thinking about all 4 seasons. Fall-Winter-Spring-Summer with annual rotations for each season. Planning will give you something to look forward to in your yard and rather than be a follower..you will be the leader.
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February 08, 2007
New Orleans temperatures have such a huge variation that you can count on only one thing these days, a huge change from day to day. What does this mean for a gardener? It means that you will have to follow the gardeners guide to winter rather than, “ I wish it was Spring early” Get out there and get to working.
Advice from The Garden Gate Guy:
Use Mardi Gras as the date as the being of spring and use for the following:
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January 01, 2007
It is important to select plant materials that are healthy and in a growing state. Look closely for insects, disease or signs of stress. It is always recommended that a small more compact plant will transplant easier and easier to control its growth than a leggy plant. Make sure to inspect the root stock of the plant. The root system provides all the essential food for the plant. Make sure not to select plants that have become root bound. Take the opportunity to look at the mature plant variety you are selecting to be able to determine if this plant will work for situation. During the selection of the plant material, make sure the plant is hydrated, foliage is clean and foliage colors are dark green or bright. Check for spotting, leaf edge burn or other common plant problems. (A single burned leaf can be snipped, but if the entire plant shows signs of distress, forget it.) Flowering plants should have young, tight buds. It’s nice to see the plant in full bloom, but if it is fully flowered now, you may not see it bloom in your garden until the following year. This is especially true with Azaleas and other flowering shrubs. Some perennials and most annuals have an extended blooming period, so with these plants this is not a major concern, but should be carefully examined for quality. Understanding the importance of soil is an understatement. It always said that it’s better to have a $5 hole with a $1 dollar plant than a $5 plant in a $1 hole. The majority of annuals and shrubs prefer well-drained soil with moderate humus content. If your soil has high clay content, you can amend it with pine bark fines or well-rotted manure; after the first year, you should need only a light reapplication in spring. Shrubs require regular feeding 3 times per year to maintain a balance between flowering, foliage and rooting development. Use Sta-green fertilizer for Azaleas and Camellias during early spring at 1-2 lbs. of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. All other shrubs should be fertilized with Sta-green Nursery Special at 1.5 lbs. per 1000 square feet. Some annuals, including cosmos, gazania and nasturtium, require little in the way of fertilizer and, in fact, do better in relatively infertile soil. Portulaca is at its best where the soil is poor and the same holds true for poppies, whose gorgeous blooms are at their best in the dry, fast-draining soil of stony banks and alpine rock gardens as well as lavender. Use Peter’s 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer applying with a hose end applicator with 1 tablespoon per gallon water every 7 days.
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October 13, 2006
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October 12, 2006
It is important to select plant materials that are healthy and in a growing state. Look closely for insects, disease or signs of stress. It is always recommended that a small more compact plant will transplant easier and easier to control its growth than a leggy plant. Make sure to inspect the root stock of the plant. The root system provides all the essential food for the plant. Make sure not to select plants that have become root bound. Take the opportunity to look at the mature plant variety you are selecting to be able to determine if this plant will work for situation. During the selection of the plant material, make sure the plant is hydrated, foliage is clean and foliage colors are dark green or bright. Check for spotting, leaf edge burn or other common plant problems. (A single burned leaf can be snipped, but if the entire plant shows signs of distress, forget it.) Flowering plants should have young, tight buds. It’s nice to see the plant in full bloom, but if it is fully flowered now, you may not see it bloom in your garden until the following year. This is especially true with Azaleas and other flowering shrubs. Some perennials and most annuals have an extended blooming period, so with these plants this is not a major concern, but should be carefully examined for quality. Understanding the importance of soil is an understatement. It always said that it’s better to have a $5 hole with a $1 dollar plant than a $5 plant in a $1 hole. The majority of annuals and shrubs prefer well-drained soil with moderate humus content. If your soil has high clay content, you can amend it with pine bark fines or well-rotted manure; after the first year, you should need only a light reapplication in spring. Shrubs require regular feeding 3 times per year to maintain a balance between flowering, foliage and rooting development. Use Sta-green fertilizer for Azaleas and Camellias during early spring at 1-2 lbs. of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. All other shrubs should be fertilized with Sta-green Nursery Special at 1.5 lbs. per 1000 square feet. Some annuals, including cosmos, gazania and nasturtium, require little in the way of fertilizer and, in fact, do better in relatively infertile soil. Portulaca is at its best where the soil is poor and the same holds true for poppies, whose gorgeous blooms are at their best in the dry, fast-draining soil of stony banks and alpine rock gardens as well as lavender. Use Peter’s 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer applying with a hose end applicator with 1 tablespoon per gallon water every 7 days.
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September 25, 2006
It is important to select plant materials that are healthy and in a growing state. Look closely for insects, disease or signs of stress. It is always recommended that a small more compact plant will transplant easier and easier to control its growth than a leggy plant. Make sure to inspect the root stock of the plant. The root system provides all the essential food for the plant. Make sure not to select plants that have become root bound. Take the opportunity to look at the mature plant variety you are selecting to be able to determine if this plant will work for situation. During the selection of the plant material, make sure the plant is hydrated, foliage is clean and foliage colors are dark green or bright. Check for spotting, leaf edge burn or other common plant problems. (A single burned leaf can be snipped, but if the entire plant shows signs of distress, forget it.) Flowering plants should have young, tight buds. It’s nice to see the plant in full bloom, but if it is fully flowered now, you may not see it bloom in your garden until the following year. This is especially true with Azaleas and other flowering shrubs. Some perennials and most annuals have an extended blooming period, so with these plants this is not a major concern, but should be carefully examined for quality. Understanding the importance of soil is an understatement. It always said that it’s better to have a $5 hole with a $1 dollar plant than a $5 plant in a $1 hole. The majority of annuals and shrubs prefer well-drained soil with moderate humus content. If your soil has high clay content, you can amend it with pine bark fines or well-rotted manure; after the first year, you should need only a light reapplication in spring. Shrubs require regular feeding 3 times per year to maintain a balance between flowering, foliage and rooting development. Use Sta-green fertilizer for Azaleas and Camellias during early spring at 1-2 lbs. of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. All other shrubs should be fertilized with Sta-green Nursery Special at 1.5 lbs. per 1000 square feet. Some annuals, including cosmos, gazania and nasturtium, require little in the way of fertilizer and, in fact, do better in relatively infertile soil. Portulaca is at its best where the soil is poor and the same holds true for poppies, whose gorgeous blooms are at their best in the dry, fast-draining soil of stony banks and alpine rock gardens as well as lavender. Use Peter’s 20-20-20 water soluble fertilizer applying with a hose end applicator with 1 tablespoon per gallon water every 7 days.
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July 12, 2006
What do I want in my garden?Before planning the garden one must realize what he wants his garden to be. Whether it is a place to entertain, an arbor, a water feature, a sculpture, screening, open areas, etc, these are things that help in the planning process. We call this developing a program for the property or the yard. Why do I need to plan my garden? To have a cohesive garden, one where all the elements work and function together, a good plan is essential. Also, if the idea is to create a garden in stages, a plan a necessity. It will help in making decisions about where to put the garden elements. The plan may help visualize a garden (come up with a plan and example photos). Some things to consider when planning: circulation, function, interest, color, water, fragrance, shade, openness, activity, privacy. Where do I put the garden elements? This is the part when the actual plan comes to life. It is basically a combination of what is discussed in the first two steps, the what and the why. A survey or some sort of measured layout of the property is needed where all existing elements are located on a piece of paper. Using a system of trace paper overlays is very useful. Lets say we have decided to have a patio, a water feature, and an arbor in the newly planned garden. Where will all this be placed? Functionally the patio will be located at the door from the house to the yard. If I want to enjoy the water feature and hear the sound of water while on the patio, I will locate very close or within the patio. Existing trees could be a factor for the features location as well. The arbor will be located at the sunny part of the yard where I can go sit and enjoy filtered sunlight while reading. This area should be connected to the back patio. This is a general idea of how the garden will be planned. There are many factors to consider when planning as mentioned in item 2.
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June 13, 2006
Gardening has become one of the largest hobbies throughout the world. Gardening changes the way you feel and how you perceive your surrounding environment. The ability to enhance your environment is the number one reason most people begin gardening. Maybe your aunt or neighbor has a beautiful garden and this inspires you or stimulates a competition of keeping up with the Jones! That’s how it gets started and usually how it all quickly becomes out of control. Gardening Made Simple offers practical solutions for your gardening lifestyle. Use these simple yet highly effective gardening solutions to create useful spaces with easy care and maintenance. |












I then sprayed it with the hose saturating the concrete and rinsing off any dust on the stones themselves. Concrete takes awhile to dry even if it has an accelerator in it like Quick Crete. We will not be using the patio for a few more days, but when it is finished drying it will be so easy to use.





